- lacquer paint (more pricey cost more takes more cotes have to sand down in between cotes) High gloss
- Lacquer-based paint was a popular type of paint from the mid 1920s to 1960s. It was typically used to cover hard wearing surfaces like auto bodies and furniture. Lacquer paint is difficult to work with and requires sanding between coats and about four to six coats on automobiles. This is still found and commonly used by many. These paints are soft and do not have many chemicals. Thus, they are not durable or long-lived. This is why an antique car with an original paint job will appear dull rather than glossy. This paint is available in aerosol spray containers as well as spray guns.
Tip: The only place that lacquer paint is used today is in furniture manufacturing shops. It is extremely rare that lacquer paint will be used in auto body and painting shops, and usually only when the customer requests it. Body shops now use the basecoat/clearcoat method, and the basecoat is always enamel.
- enamel paint (can achive same result as laque les expensive
SolventThe biggest difference between the two types of paint is the solvent. Enamel uses thinner or white spirits and lacquer paint uses lacquer thinner. Enamel paints use a process that allows polymers in the paint to set and bond together so when the paint hardens, it will not soften again. In contrast, lacquer paint dries when the solvent has evaporated and can soften over time.
FinishThough both paints can achieve a glossy and shiny finish, lacquer paints result in a thicker coat than enamel paint. However, the lacquer paint can bubble and crack if not applied effectively with the right technique. Often, several coats of lacquer paint need to be applied to get the right finish. There are both latex and oil-based paints that can be just as shiny as lacquer paint.
Choosing a Polyurethane (expensive available in few colors)
- Polyurethane is applied with a brush to flat surfaces and with a cloth to contoured surfaces. The aerosol spray form is used for hard-to-reach areas.
The paint is available in a gloss, semi-gloss and satin finish. A gloss gives a shiny look to a project, while a semi-gloss adds a just a little bit of shine. A satin finish has more of a matte appearance. All glosses perform the same; however, a high-gloss finish may show scratches more easily.
You can find both interior and exterior versions of polyurethane paint. Exterior versions are formulated to give projects extra protection from the elements. While exterior versions can be used on indoor projects, an interior version of polyurethane will not give adequate protection to an outdoor project.
- Water-based polyurethane is the best choice for projects that will not be exposed to heat or cleaning products. It goes on clear, protecting the newly created surface. It dries faster than the oil-based version, but it can also be more expensive.
Water-based polyurethane is available in clear for interiors and as a spar urethane for exteriors. Use a synthetic-filament brush or buy the aerosol spray to apply three coats of either clear polyurethane and spar urethane. Clear polyurethane takes two hours to dry between coats, while spar urethane takes four hours.
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- Oil-based polyurethane paint is cheaper and more durable than its water-based counterpart. Use it to protect projects expected to come into contact with heat or chemicals. Your craft project will need fewer coats of oil-based polyurethane because the paint contains 15 to 20 percent more polyurethane solids than water-based polyurethane. However, it also leaves a yellowish tint behind, which might be undesirable for certain projects.
Oil-based polyurethane comes in several forms: interior wipe-on, stain-and-poly combo, high-build, fast-drying and exterior spar urethane. Apply three coats of the wipe-on form with a lint-free cloth. Each coat needs 2 to 3 hours to dry. Use a natural bristle brush to apply two coats of either the stain-and-poly combo, high-build or fast-drying polyurethane, after waiting four to six hours between coats. Spar urethane takes four hours to dry between coats. Apply it using a synthetic-filament brush or purchase the aerosol spray.
- Water-based, oil-modified polyurethane is a hybrid mix of oil- and water-based polyurethane. It is more durable than regular water-based polyurethane. This type of polyurethane comes in a brush-on and a wipe-on form. Apply three coats of the brush-on form using a synthetic filament brush or spray. Each coat takes two hours to dry. Apply three coats of the wipe-on form using a lint-free cloth. Each coat takes two to three hours dry.
- Water-based polyurethane paint is low-odor and has low VOC emissions. On the other hand, oil-based polyurethane has a strong odor and should be used with a respirator in a well-ventilated area. It also has high VOC emissions, which means it may be difficult to find in some areas of the United States because of environmental laws.
How do I choose? oil vs latex paint? use oil (latext is cheap wont last OIL IS BETTERThere are many factors to consider when choosing paint such as cost (oil paint is 4x more expensive than latex), availability (big box stores like Home Depot and Lowes don’t sell oil paint), and cleanup – oil paint must be cleaned up with solvents whereas latex paint can be washed up with warm water only. Ultimately however, if you are serious about your project, the type of paint you use on your furniture depends on only two factors: (1) What will the furniture be used for and (2) How long must it last?. If you’re painting something that may very rarely get touched or have anything put on it, latex is an easy way out. It will paint fast, clean up easily and look beautiful – not to mention the smell will not drive you from your home. Good candidates for latex paint are end tables, shadow boxes, picture frames and stair railings.
What’s the difference?Latex (water based) paint is sold everywhere. Home Depot, Lowes, and all small hardware stores. It costs around $20-$25 per gallon and can be mixed to any color. Latex paint is inexpensive and dries fairly quickly. Additionally, the odor of latex paint is mostly non-offensive to most. Latex paint is found on almost every painted wall in the world – that’s due to its cost and versatility. This paint has its drawbacks too. The biggest drawback to latex paint when it comes to painting furniture is the fact that it never really cures solid.
Curing?Let’s talk about the curing process for a moment. It will help if I first explain that paint, for the most part, consists of two things: (1) pigment (the color) and (2) a thinning agent to allow the color to flow – for latex paint, this is water (which you would thin latex paint with) but for oil based paint, the thinning agent is some type of alkyd solvent. Paint thinner or mineral spirits (the same thing) is necessary to thin this paint.) “Curing” is a drying process of sorts. When you paint something with wet paint, the paint flows as you brush or spray it. Soon after, the thinning agent begins to evaporate and the paint begins to dry. When paint dries, you can touch or re-coat it. But, it should be known that paint is not completely dry until it is “cured”. When paint is cured, it is completely dried – and hardened. When dealing with latex or oil based paint, this curing process takes about 30 days.
It seems that latex paint like “Behr” sold from Home Depot never cures satisfactorily for most furniture applications. It never gets really hard. That’s why you can leave a mark in it with your finger nail. No matter how long you leave late paint sit, it is always a little “soft”. “Soft” isn’t good for furniture that is going to see serious use. If you’ve got a piece of furniture you want to paint and it’s going to get some serious use, you need oil based paint. Oil based paint takes a while to cure, and it’s a pain in the butt to clean up but once it’s cured, it’s the real deal.
Where latex paint sort of ‘bonds’ to the wood, oil based paint soaks into it. Oil paint becomes a part of the wood. This is why when you paint furniture with oil paint, not only do you not need to use a primer, you don’t have to worry about what is on the furniture currently. Oil paint sticks to anything. It penetrates wood, becomes one with other finishes, and covers shellac and old paint. It’s not surprise at this point – I’m a huge fan of oil paint. When we do a job for a customer who requests to have a piece of furniture painted, we only use oil paint. The reason is because it will last a life time and we avoid callbacks because of this. Oil paint will withstand just about anything you throw at it. Where latex paint will become damaged from a wet glass, just overnight, oil paint remains impervious to this sort of everyday abuse.
So what now?We use Sherwin Williams paint. To be fair, we don’t have any sort of sponsorship with them, and, Benjamin Moore has oil paint that’s just as good. I can’t recommend enough, the use of oil based paint for a project which will see a lot of use. We typically use Sherwin Williams Pro-Classic Enamel. You can brush, roll or spray this paint – all with a beautiful result. If you are going to distress the furniture piece after painting, i recommend waiting a full month after painting with oil or latex paint. The reason is because if the paint is not cured, when you sand it, it will behave like rubber and you won’t achieve a smooth, feathered edge.
We paint furniture all the time and, as a rule of thumb, we use oil paint 95% of the time. The reason is because we can depend on it. Yeah, it’s more trouble to clean up and yeah, it’s more expensive but the result is worth every moment and penny spent. You can use either latex or oil paint on furniture but for a lifetime, trouble free finish, we use oil based paint and then finish it with paste wax. This leaves a painted surface so strong, you could pour water on it and leave to dry. That’s a finish that will please not only you, but any customers you may paint for and everyone will be happy for the lifetime of the furniture piece and you’ll not have to worry about callbacks.